Nakhom Phanom is a lovely little town pushed up against the Mekong in Thailand’s upper northeast and opposite the equally characterful Tha Kaek on the Lao side of the river.

Although I have been to Tha Kaek many times in the last few years, it is almost two decades since I visited Nakhon Phanom.  When I returned last week I immediately questioned why I had left it so long. It’s a charming town, and along with nearby Sakhon Nakhon, makes for a great destination for those interested in heritage, regional culture, and local cuisine (more on that in a future post).

In the 1920s many Vietnamese settled in the area and built French-Vietnamese style shophouses along the riverfront. Coming across such gems in Issan is a wonderful surprise and although some have sadly fallen into disrepair many are in remarkably good condition.

There’s also a strong Chinese-Thai community in Nakhon Phanom and some fascinating old shops to explore that have remained unchanged for decades.

You can get direct flights from Bangkok to Nakhom Phanom now with Nok Air making it a great destination for a distinctly different weekend break.

I’ll be heading back in the cool season for a few lazy evenings beside the Mekong eating good Issan food.

Thailand has a sizable population of Tai Dam or Black Tai, of which there are several tight-knit communities in the upper northeast around Loei and Nong Khai.

They originate from the Dien Bien Phu region of Vietnam but are spread through Laos and Thailand more than a century ago. The women are skilled weavers and still make and wear their own traditional clothing. Like all ethnic groups, their culture is threatened by our rapidly changing world.  However, in the village of Baan Na Pa Nat in Loei province, efforts are being made to ensure that their rich traditions are kept alive.

Baan Na Pa Nat has been designated a Tai Dam Cultural Village and is an interesting place to visit, particularly for those with a love of the textile arts as there is a weaving co-operative where you can witness the process and also buy products. The village also offers several homestays which are worth it just to experience the distinctive Tai Dam cuisine.

In April, there is a large gathering of Tai Dam in the village with groups coming from all over the region.

In my humble opinion, the northeast of Thailand, or Issan as it is more commonly referred to, is overlooked by far too many travelers. It’s a fascinating region of cultural and culinary diversity and never fails to delight me.

Located in the upper northeast, 615 kilometres from Bangkok, the province of Udon Thani is perhaps the last place you would expect to find salt farms.

But in the district of Ban Dung checkerboard rice fields have been given over to the production of high quality rock salt.

The salt-rich groundwater is pumped up from 80-metres below at a number of licensed farms in the area. It’s an activity carried out in the cool and hot seasons, and one which produces high quality salt.

As well as producing salt, the farm I visited also makes Chinese-style salted eggs and has a spa with a selection of natural and salt based products.

I’ll post a few more images of my travels in Issan over the next few days.

I was in Nong Khai last week. Luckily I returned just before it was hit by heavy flooding. It’s a pleasant little town, particularly at this time of year when it has a sleepy low season feel about it.  The town sits in the northern reaches of Issan and you can enjoy lazy evenings dining beside the Mekong River on floating restaurants and, if you wish, cross into neighbouring Laos via the Friendship Bridge. The area is known for great sunsets and the bridge is a good spot to capture them.