With all the upheaval going on in Bangkok, perhaps it’s time to dig out a few images of happier times. A few years ago I travelled to Siem Reap with my all-time favourite travelling companion to visit the temples of Angkor.
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Siem Reap may get overrun with tourists but a visit to Angkor is still essential.Many travelers to Cambodia find the visit to Siem Reap to be so inspiring that two days is simply not enough. It is certainly possible to spend five or six enjoyable days exploring the area.
A good way to start your Angkor adventure is at the recently completed Angkor National Museum. It’s a worthwhile experience that explains the history of Angkor in a clear and concise manner and is a great precursor to visiting the actual sites. The museum also includes a stunning collection of over 1,000 Buddha images. Entrance fee is $12. www.angkornationalmuseum.com
The key to enjoying Angkor itself is to get up early while the weather is cooler. By 11 a.m. wandering around the ruins becomes uncomfortably hot and tiring. Rising early, however, doesn’t mean you’ll beat the crowds as everyone else has the same idea. Park hours are 5 a.m. until 6.30 p.m. daily. Entry to the park is $20 a day or $40 for a three-day pass.
Angkor encompasses more than 30 temples and ancient buildings spread over a vast area. If you have limited time or don’t want to spend your entire visit to Siem Reap at Angkor, concentrate on a few highlights.
Angkor Wat covers an area of one square kilometre and comprising of three levels and a central tower. The entranceway is particularly impressive and is the site of the early morning pilgrimage for the obligatory sunrise photo shoot. Inside the confines of the temple the inner and outer walls are covered with exquisite bas reliefs. If you want to get a detailed explanation of what you are looking at, you can hire an official guide at the entrance to the site.
Angkor Thom dates from the 12th and 13th centuries and was the last capital of the Angkor Empire. Enclosed by a moat and a three kilometre wall, the area is entered through an impressive gateway. At the heart of the complex is Bayon with 37 towers, most of which feature four massive carved faces. The temple is particularly popular with visitors but the inner area is small and can get very crowded.
Ta Phrom is sprawling temple complex is the site for some of Angkor’s most memorable imagery. The main temple was lost to jungle for centuries. When the site was reclaimed the massive trees that straddled the walls were left in place. It is a fascinating temple to explore and great for photography. Bayon and Ta Prohm were used as sets in the film Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie.
There are several fine temples beyond Angkor, one of the best being Banteay Srei. It is worth taking the 38 kilometre ride out here, if only to enjoy a drive through the beautiful. The temple is constructed of sandstone that has a pinkish tinge and its delicate bas-reliefs are in excellent condition. Due to looting, the sculptures at the site are replicas. The remaining originals can be seen at the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
You will need transport to get from temple to temple, either a romuak, a motorbike with a trailer for two, or a driver with car. The romuak are an excellent way to get around, and preferable to the confines of a car. You can hire a romuak and driver for between $12- 15 a day for running around town and Angkor. For longer trips out to places such Bantaey Srei, expect the fee to rise to $25. Drivers usually wait around near hotels and the concierge should be able to assist with negotiations.
Siem Reap itself is well worth exploring. It has excellent restaurants, bars, boutiques, and markets to discover.
Places to stay
Set within beautifully landscaped gardens on the outskirts of Siem Reap, the Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort is an excellent choice for any visit to Angkor. The colonial style hotel features 238 superb rooms, a swimming pool, spa, five restaurants and an 18-hole golf course located 20 kilometres away. Service at the hotel is exceptional, as is the standard of the rooms. www.sofitel.com